19 May 2014

fountain pens, part 2: the ink

I hope the brief overview on fountain pens in my last post helped to clear some of the questions you may have had about these wonderful, but slightly intimidating writing instruments. If you need any additional information, I'll be more than happy to answer you as best I can.

Please note that the advice below derives from my own experience and observations; I'm by no means an expert, so results may vary!


When it comes to fountain pens, the pen itself is only part of the equation. You've carefully selected a fountain pen that pleases you visually and that feels comfortable in your hand... wonderful, but now you need ink!

Yes, ink is a coloured liquid – but it's a bit more complicated than that. For a start, it's sold in cartridges and in bottles. If your fountain pen only uses cartridges (which is rare), or if you prefer to stick to cartridges for the moment, then in theory your ink selection is limited to what is available in the specific cartridge format for your pen. (Make sure you check which format that is before purchasing cartridges.)

I said in theory, because as I mentioned in my previous post, you can refill an empty cartridge with any bottled ink you please by using a syringe with a large-gauge needle. Since bottled ink is much less expensive than cartridges, this method is also more economical.

If your fountain pen has a converter or a piston-filling mechanism, you simply dip the nib into the bottle and draw the ink up into the reservoir, then carefully wipe the nib and part of the grip that were immersed.

By the way, if you're in the habit of leaving your pen uncapped while you ponder what to write next, it would be a good idea to train yourself to replace the cap quickly when you stop writing, to prevent the ink from drying on the nib and giving you a "hard start" the next time you use it.

Different inks have different properties. Here are some considerations to take into account when choosing an ink:


Is it water-resistant/waterproof?

If you're a clumsy drinker, or when you are addressing an envelope or writing a postcard, you need ink that offers some resistance to water – otherwise it will dissolve at the slightest contact with a liquid. But what is the difference between water resistance and waterproofness? Let me illustrate it by placing three inks under running water for 10 seconds:


water test: before and after

The blue and green inks at the top offer only a little water resistance; more water-resistant inks leave behind fairly legible writing. The grey ink on the bottom, which is waterproof, remains completely unaffected.

Non-water-resistant inks have one major advantage: they're easier to clean off your fingers and out of your pen!

Is it bulletproof?

Sadly, "bulletproof" inks will not actually stop bullets. This term has become a shorthand way to describe an ink that is not only waterproof, but will also resist acid, bleach, solvents, UV, and other methods that may be used by forgers to remove ink from documents. In fact, the paper will turn to pulp before the ink shows signs of fading. This is the type of ink to use when signing or endorsing cheques, on legal documents, etc.

Will I be using it on cheap paper?

Cheap paper, such as copier paper or most common envelopes, is a fountain pen user's worst enemy. With most inks, it can cause feathering and/or bleedthrough, which make for unsightly writing.

Feathering means that ink is absorbed along the paper's long fibres, looking like the barbs of a feather.



feathering: lines look blurry and messy

Quality paper has shorter fibres and is usually coated, which means that the ink stays on its surface instead of sinking into it. This makes the writing look crisp and clear, and the ink's colour usually look more vibrant.



no feathering: lines look distinct


When there's bleedthrough, also called bleeding, writing can easily be seen on the reverse of the sheet or even get through onto the following page.

If circumstances leave you no choice but to use inferior quality paper, you may have to experiment with a number of inks before finding one that will cause minimal feathering and bleedthrough.

Is it quick-drying?

Inks have variable drying time. It will depend on the type of paper on which you're writing and on your pen's nib size (the wider the nib, the more ink is deposited on the paper). If you write in a notebook and need to turn the page and continue writing, ink that dries fast will prevent blotting on facing pages. Quick-drying ink is also essential if you're left-handed and an overwriter, which means that you place your hand above the writing line and that as you write, your hand moves across what you've just written.

While a few inks are described as quick-drying, most inks can be made to dry a little faster by adding a small quantity of distilled water. I know, it seems strange that more liquid equals faster drying, but it truly works!

*****

I'm very aware that this all sounds very complicated. How do you start exploring all of these inky possibilities? I have three words for you: TRIAL, ERROR, and SAMPLES.

Find an online shop that sells ink samples; study the ink properties; place an order for the ones that appeal to you; and have fun experimenting! You can even join an ink sample club. Who knows, you might be surprised by an ink that looked very ordinary onscreen. This has certainly been my case with the blue ink above; I thought it was just one of a seemingly endless number of dark blue inks, but it has a lovely purple hue that I fell in love with.

Oh yes, do you remember that syringe I mentioned earlier? It will come in handy to get ink from a sample vial into your fountain pen, since the top of the vial will probably be too small for your pen's nib.

When your fountain pen runs out of ink, clean it well, absorb as much water as possible with a paper towel, and let it air dry thoroughly before refilling it. Even if you're filling it with the same ink, it's a good idea to flush it well and let it dry. In most cases, tepid water will be enough, but adding a little neutral liquid soap may be necessary. In rare cases, with very stubborn ink, using an ultrasonic cleaner or soaking the nib unit in a special solution might be needed.

Here's a little tip for getting ink stains off your fingers: wash your hair! The combined action of shampoo and friction will remove most of the ink.


WARNING! NEVER under ANY circumstances fill a fountain pen with inks that are not meant for use in fountain pens, for example India ink! The pen will clog and be very difficult to clean out... and could in fact become unusable.

6 comments:

  1. Quel plaisir ça doit être d'avoir un coup de coeur inattendu pour une encre comme tu en as eu un pour cette encre bleue! Ça doit être chouette de recevoir une batch d'échantillons à essayer. En bonus, j'ai l'impression que ça me donnerait un bon incitatif pour bien nettoyer ma plume entre les remplissages - sinon, je me connais, je finirais probablement par essayer de voir jusqu'à combien de remplissages je peux étirer sans ennuis entre deux nettoyages... Et puis, bien que je sache déjà dans quelle couleur j'aimerais trouver "mon" encre, je serais sans aucun doute ravie d'avoir un coup de coeur pour d'éventuelles agréables surprises dans d'autres teintes. Non seulement la variété doit être agréable en soi, il doit aussi être plaisant de pouvoir choisir la couleur qui nous paraît la plus appropriée en fonction de notre humeur, du récipiendaire, de ce que l'on a à écrire, etc. Ah, le plaisir que ce doit être d'explorer tout ça!

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    1. Je pense sincèrement que de jouer avec de l'encre est un des plaisirs simples de la vie! :-)

      Tu sais, ça m'arrive de ne pas nettoyer ma plume lorsqu'elle tombe à sec et que je dois continuer à écrire avec la même encre. Le risque, c'est de contaminer la bouteille ou l'échantillon d'encre si on y trempe une pointe sur laquelle s'est accumulée poussières et particules de papier...

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    2. Ah, oui, j'avais pas pensé à la possibilité de contaminer la bouteille d'encre... Bon point! Merci d'avoir mentionné la chose; ça ne me serait vraiment pas venu à l'idée, du moins pas avant d'avoir dû apprendre la chose à la dure!
      Faudra que j'en parle à mon chum - sa plume a huit ans, il en est à sa deuxième bouteille d'encre (lui, il n'a pas exploré cet univers du tout! il est heureux avec du noir bien classique et s'en est tenu au même noir depuis toujours), et à ma connaissance, il n'a pas nettoyé sa plume bien souvent... Il ne semble pas encore avoir eu de problème avec ça, mais je vais lui mentionner la chose quand même, histoire qu'il sache ce qu'il se passe si jamais son encre lui paraissait ne plus être tout à fait la même. Merci encore, tes tuyaux sont inestimables pour cette wannabe future propriétaire de plume non initiée à tous les petits et grands détails de cet univers! La visite guidée est super appréciée! ;)

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    3. En effet, un bon nettoyage de plume serait sûrement bénéfique, ne serait-ce que pour enlever les petites fibres de papier qui restent inévitablement coincées entre les dents de la pointe et les particules d'encre séchées. Je recommanderais de laisser tremper la section de la pointe dans de l'eau tiède additionnée d'un peu de savon à vaisselle pendant toute une nuit avant de rincer à fond avec de l'eau tiède (jamais chaude!). (Pour un nettoyage plus en profondeur, il faudrait désassembler la pointe, ce qui est plus ou moins facile à faire selon le modèle... Comme toujours, les vidéos de S.B.R.E. Brown sont une excellente source de renseignements; voici ses vidéos sur les plumes Waterman.)

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    4. Merci pour ces précisions et cette ressource! Je passe l'info à Éric, qui l'apprécie beaucoup et saura en faire bon usage. :)

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    5. Excellent! Et s'il a des questions, ça me fera plaisir d'y répondre si je le peux!

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Your comments are welcome, in English or en français.