fountain pens, part 3: the ink (cont'd), the paper, the accessories, and the resources

Let's pretend you read my previous two posts about fountain pens, first about the pens themselves, then about ink. This is my last fountain pen-related post. Rejoice!

Please note that the advice below derives from my own experience and observations; I'm by no means an expert, so results may vary!

In speaking about ink, I avoided making recommendations, but now I think it might have been a helpful starting point, given the thousands of possibilities... so here are my favourites:

- Noodler's Bulletproof Black (a true black that won't feather even on cheap paper; long drying time that can be improved by adding a few drops of distilled water; essential for signing and endorsing cheques)
- Private Reserve Midnight Blues (a blue-black with just a touch of purple)
- Private Reserve Avacado (sic) (a dark green that offers all the shades of a ripe avocado)
- Diamine Damson (a delicious dark purple)
- Noodler's Nikita (a super bright red)

I've already touched on the subject of paper, and mentioned that ink will react differently depending on the quality of the paper on which you're writing – in the worst cases by feathering and even bleeding through.

Fortunately, "good" paper for fountain pen users isn't too difficult to find. I personally use and can recommend these brands:

- Rhodia (inexpensive; available in a wide variety of sizes and ruling)

- EcoQua (fairly inexpensive; offered in various sizes and colours)

- Clairefontaine (drool-worthily smooth paper; tons of different sizes, colours and patterns)

- Quo Vadis Habana (elastic closure; available in beautiful colours)

- G. Lalo ("fancy" stationery)

I've also read very positive reviews of Apica, Field Notes, Leuchtturm 1917 and Semikolon notebooks, but have never tried them.

"What about Moleskine?", you may ask. This is a bit of a touchy subject. Some people seem very attached to this brand and/or its look. What I can tell you that the quality of the paper in Moleskines is inconsistent from one notebook to another, or even within the same notebook; one page may cause no feathering or bleedthrough, while another further along might absorb ink like a sheet of toilet paper... Moleskines are simply not made with fountain pen users in mind. Given the price, I'd rather purchase an identical-looking Quo Vadis Habana or Leuchtturm notebook and be certain that I won't encounter any problems at all.

Fountain pen, ink, paper: now, you're all set!

Ah, but there are a few accessories that might prove useful as you sink deeper into the madness...

Whether it's a discarded hand towel, a piece from an old t-shirt or a microfibre cloth, a dedicated ink cloth is more eco-friendly than a stack of paper towels when you're cleaning out or refilling your fountain pen. It's very important that you never wash your ink cloth! Over time, it will develop a unique colour pattern that is a fountain pen user's badge of honour.

Speaking of cleaning, a bulb syringe, also called ear syringe (but colloquially known as "snot sucker") will allow you to flush water forcefully yet gently through the nib section. Yes, it's that pear-shaped thing that's used to aspirate mucus out of a baby's nose. Who knew it was so versatile? You'll find it in the baby department of any pharmacy or department store.

To transfer ink from a small ink sample vial to an empty cartridge or a converter, or to clean the inside of a converter that can't be disassembled, you'll need a syringe with large-gauge (14 or 20ga) needle. Ask your pharmacist, if you dare, or order one from an online fountain pen shop.

If you're the impatient type, use slow-drying ink, or need to flip pages over quickly, blotting paper will be your best friend. It's not essential, of course; you can simply place a sheet of ordinary paper over your writing, but it does work much better and faster at absorbing extra ink... and there's something delightfully old-fashioned about blotting paper.

As promised, here are my favourite resources for all things fountain pen:

Wonder Pens

(shop / blog / Twitter / Facebook)

- also a brick-and-mortar store in Toronto

- product reviews, tips and news on the blog

- ink samples
- calligraphy classes

Boutique du Stylo

(shop)

- also brick-and-mortar stores in Montreal and Quebec City

Goulet Pen Company

(shop / blog / Twitter / Facebook / YouTube)
- tons of informative blog posts and videos about fountain pens, inks and paper

- ink samples and ink sample club

Not shops, but filled with useful information:

S.B.R.E. Brown

(Twitter / YouTube)

- very detailed fountain pen and ink reviews with a quirky twist

Fountain Pen Geeks

(blog / Twitter / Facebook / YouTube / forum)

- reviews, news and occasional giveaways

Fountain Pen Network

(forum)

- a safe place for the fountain pen mad

I hope this series of very basic posts has helped to make fountain pens a little less intimidating for you. If you love writing and are a bit of a stationery geek, you'll find they're a wonderful way to increase your enjoyment of both!

Please feel free to share your favourite fountain pens, inks, paper and resources in the comments!

fountain pens, part 2: the ink

I hope the brief overview on fountain pens in my last post helped to clear some of the questions you may have had about these wonderful, but slightly intimidating writing instruments. If you need any additional information, I'll be more than happy to answer you as best I can.

Please note that the advice below derives from my own experience and observations; I'm by no means an expert, so results may vary!

When it comes to fountain pens, the pen itself is only part of the equation. You've carefully selected a fountain pen that pleases you visually and that feels comfortable in your hand... wonderful, but now you need ink!

Yes, ink is a coloured liquid – but it's a bit more complicated than that. For a start, it's sold in cartridges and in bottles. If your fountain pen only uses cartridges (which is rare), or if you prefer to stick to cartridges for the moment, then in theory your ink selection is limited to what is available in the specific cartridge format for your pen. (Make sure you check which format that is before purchasing cartridges.)

I said in theory, because as I mentioned in my previous post, you can refill an empty cartridge with any bottled ink you please by using a syringe with a large-gauge needle. Since bottled ink is much less expensive than cartridges, this method is also more economical.

If your fountain pen has a converter or a piston-filling mechanism, you simply dip the nib into the bottle and draw the ink up into the reservoir, then carefully wipe the nib and part of the grip that were immersed.

By the way, if you're in the habit of leaving your pen uncapped while you ponder what to write next, it would be a good idea to train yourself to replace the cap quickly when you stop writing, to prevent the ink from drying on the nib and giving you a "hard start" the next time you use it.

Different inks have different properties. Here are some considerations to take into account when choosing an ink:

Is it water-resistant/waterproof?

If you're a clumsy drinker, or when you are addressing an envelope or writing a postcard, you need ink that offers some resistance to water – otherwise it will dissolve at the slightest contact with a liquid. But what is the difference between water resistance and waterproofness? Let me illustrate it by placing three inks under running water for 10 seconds:

water test: before and after

The blue and green inks at the top offer only a little water resistance; more water-resistant inks leave behind fairly legible writing. The grey ink on the bottom, which is waterproof, remains completely unaffected.

Non-water-resistant inks have one major advantage: they're easier to clean off your fingers and out of your pen!

Is it bulletproof?

Sadly, "bulletproof" inks will not actually stop bullets. This term has become a shorthand way to describe an ink that is not only waterproof, but will also resist acid, bleach, solvents, UV, and other methods that may be used by forgers to remove ink from documents. In fact, the paper will turn to pulp before the ink shows signs of fading. This is the type of ink to use when signing or endorsing cheques, on legal documents, etc.

Will I be using it on cheap paper?

Cheap paper, such as copier paper or most common envelopes, is a fountain pen user's worst enemy. With most inks, it can cause feathering and/or bleedthrough, which make for unsightly writing.

Feathering means that ink is absorbed along the paper's long fibres, looking like the barbs of a feather.

feathering: lines look blurry and messy

Quality paper has shorter fibres and is usually coated, which means that the ink stays on its surface instead of sinking into it. This makes the writing look crisp and clear, and the ink's colour usually look more vibrant.

no feathering: lines look distinct

When there's bleedthrough, also called bleeding, writing can easily be seen on the reverse of the sheet or even get through onto the following page.

If circumstances leave you no choice but to use inferior quality paper, you may have to experiment with a number of inks before finding one that will cause minimal feathering and bleedthrough.

Is it quick-drying?

Inks have variable drying time. It will depend on the type of paper on which you're writing and on your pen's nib size (the wider the nib, the more ink is deposited on the paper). If you write in a notebook and need to turn the page and continue writing, ink that dries fast will prevent blotting on facing pages. Quick-drying ink is also essential if you're left-handed and an overwriter, which means that you place your hand above the writing line and that as you write, your hand moves across what you've just written.

While a few inks are described as quick-drying, most inks can be made to dry a little faster by adding a small quantity of distilled water. I know, it seems strange that more liquid equals faster drying, but it truly works!

*****

I'm very aware that this all sounds very complicated. How do you start exploring all of these inky possibilities? I have three words for you: TRIAL, ERROR, and SAMPLES.

Find an online shop that sells ink samples; study the ink properties; place an order for the ones that appeal to you; and have fun experimenting! You can even join an ink sample club. Who knows, you might be surprised by an ink that looked very ordinary onscreen. This has certainly been my case with the blue ink above; I thought it was just one of a seemingly endless number of dark blue inks, but it has a lovely purple hue that I fell in love with.

Oh yes, do you remember that syringe I mentioned earlier? It will come in handy to get ink from a sample vial into your fountain pen, since the top of the vial will probably be too small for your pen's nib.

When your fountain pen runs out of ink, clean it well, absorb as much water as possible with a paper towel, and let it air dry thoroughly before refilling it. Even if you're filling it with the same ink, it's a good idea to flush it well and let it dry. In most cases, tepid water will be enough, but adding a little neutral liquid soap may be necessary. In rare cases, with very stubborn ink, using an ultrasonic cleaner or soaking the nib unit in a special solution might be needed.

Here's a little tip for getting ink stains off your fingers: wash your hair! The combined action of shampoo and friction will remove most of the ink.

WARNING! NEVER under ANY circumstances fill a fountain pen with inks that are not meant for use in fountain pens, for example India ink! The pen will clog and be very difficult to clean out... and could in fact become unusable.

fountain pens, part 1: the pen

To my great surprise, there was actual interest in my previous post in praise of fountain pens! And comments, too! This fills me with so much joy that I've decided to write a bit more about this wonderful topic. I'll be splitting my babbling over three posts: one will be an overall look at fountain pens, one on inks, and a final one about associated accessories and resources.

Please note that the advice below derives from my own experience and observations; I'm by no means an expert, so results may vary!

As funny as this sounds, fountain pens have a personality all their own. Ballpoint pens? Not so much. You form a relationship with your fountain pen that's completely unique. But for the magic to happen, there has to be a certain amount of compatibility between the user and the pen. It's entirely possible that a fountain pen that someone else finds wonderful will "refuse" to write for you. (It happened with the gorgeous gold-plated fountain pen my parents gave me as a graduation present. It was a high quality, beautifully crafted object, but even after multiple cleanings, inkings and tests, I simply couldn't get it to write. A family friend took it home and instantly fell in love with how smooth it wrote for her — so it found a new home.)

So where should you start? Although it sounds very shallow, I believe most people's first criterion when choosing a fountain pen is the way it looks, and for the most part this has been true in my case. After all, you'll be spending many years to come with your pen, so it makes sense that it should be pleasing to your eye. (Let's leave the utilitarian approach to ballpoint users, shall we?) And of course, if you think your fountain pen is beautiful, you'll probably want to use it more often.

But there are less frivolous aspects to selecting a fountain pen.

The size of your hands and your personal preferences will influence the dimensions and weight (and therefore material) you should look for. Do you have tiny hands or large paws? Would you rather hold a substantial, heavy pen or one that's light as a feather? If there's a stationery shop near you that sells fountain pens, ask to try them out so that you can form an idea of what you like best. Some online shops indicate the weight and dimensions of their pens, which is a useful way to compare various models.

The way in which you hold your pen can lead you NOT to choose a certain model. While most pen grips have a round section, a few (like on the Lamy Safari pictured below) are moulded in a triangular shape that's suited to the classic "tripod" grip. If you hold your pen differently than this, know that a triangular grip may be uncomfortable for you.

Fountain pens can be problematic for left-handers, since they write by pushing the nib across the paper rather pulling it like right-handers. A few companies (such as Lamy) make special left-handed nibs, although they're not easy to find. Being right-handed, I have no experience with these issues, but there are plenty of resources online; a search for "fountain pen" and "left-handed" will direct you to many informative articles.

Once you've decided on a model, you'll have to select a nib size. Personally, I love fine nibs, but if your handwriting is large and bold, then a wider nib may be better suited. My advice would be to start with a fine nib and use it for a while, then see if you'd prefer a narrower (extra-fine) or wider (medium, broad or even double broad) nib. There are also what are called "italic" nibs. Although they're not for everyday use, these 1.1mm, 1.5mm or 1.9mm wide nibs allow you to add a calligraphic element to your writing, for example when addressing an envelope. You should note that not all of these nib sizes are available for all pens.

If you're unfamiliar with fountain pens and are unsure whether or not you'll enjoy using one, it wouldn't make sense to invest in a costly model. You can start with an inexpensive pen and cartridges (1 cartridge is usually included with the fountain pen). Later on, once you've become accustomed to your pen, you can switch to bottled ink, which is far less expensive and opens up a whole world of colours and features. For this, you'll need a converter — a little pump that sits in place of a cartridge inside the pen's body — that may or may not have come with the pen when you purchased it. In a pinch, it's even possible to use a syringe with a large-gauge needle to refill your cartridge. (Don't be alarmed, this is perfectly normal among fountain pen users!) It's important to know that certain fountain pen manufacturers have proprietary cartridges and converters, i.e. only their specific cartridges or converter will fit their fountain pens.

Now for a few "starter pen" suggestions...

(NOTE: These are only pens I've used myself and can therefore recommend personally; I'm sure there are plenty more excellent choices out there!)

Platinum Preppy
Comes with 1 cartridge; converter sold separately.
Only available with a medium nib, but it's a "Japanese medium," which is equivalent to a fine.
This is a very cheap and rather fragile fountain pen; if you sit or step on it, odds are it will crack. Writes fairly smoothly in my experience. I only use mine for red ink, which tends to be difficult to clean out. Sold in a few different accent colours.

Pilot Metropolitan
Comes with a converter and 1 cartridge.
Used to be only sold with a (Japanese) medium nib, but some with a fine nib are now becoming available.
Metal construction, feels substantial in the hand. Very smooth writer. Impressive quality for the cost (about C$20). Sold in a few different colours and patterns on the centre band. One of my favourites!

Lamy Safari / Lamy Vista / Lamy Al-Star
Comes with 1 cartridge; converter sold separately.
Three versions of the same pen: the Safari is made of plastic, the Vista of clear plastic (called a "demonstrator"), and the Al-Star of metal. Great quality. Nibs are available separately and very easy to change. Sold in a rainbow of colours.

TWSBI Diamond Mini
Piston filler, i.e. doesn't use cartridges or a converter; the body of the pen itself hold the ink.
Very small, but holds lots of ink. Very smooth writer. Nib units are available separately. Sold in black or demonstrator (clear). Also one of my favourites!